BU-405: Charging with a Power Supply

Learn how to charge a battery without a designated charger.

With technical knowledge, batteries can be charged manually with a power supply featuring user-adjustable voltage and current limiting. I stress manual because charging cannot be left unattended; charge termination is not automated. You need to observe the state-of-charge according to voltage and current behaviors. Lower the charge voltage or disconnect the charge when the battery is full. Because of difficulties in detecting full charge with nickel-based batteries, I recommend to charge only lead and lithium-based batteries manually.

Before connecting the battery, calculate the charge voltage according to the number of cells in series, and then set the desired voltage and current limit. To charge a 12-volt lead acid battery (six cells) to a voltage limit of 2.40V, set the voltage to 14.40V (6 x 2.40). Select the charge current according to battery size. For lead acid this is between 10 and 30 percent of the rated capacity. A 10Ah battery at 30 percent charges at about 3A. Starter batteries charge at lower currents, and an 80Ah pack would charge at about 10 percent of the rating, or 8A. Higher currents are possible.

Observe the battery temperature, voltage and current during charge. Charge only at ambient temperatures in a well-ventilated room. Once the battery is fully charged and the current has dropped to three percent of the rated Ah, the charge is completed. Disconnect the charge. High self-discharge (soft electrical short) may prevent the current from going to the anticipated low current level when fully charged. Disconnect the charge also when the current has bottomed out and cannot go lower. If you need float charge for operational readiness, lower the charge voltage to about 2.25V/cell.

You can also use the power supply to equalize a lead acid battery by setting the charge voltage 10 percent higher than recommended. The time in overcharge is critical and must be carefully observed. When using the power supply to perform equalizing, refer to the previous section entitled “Equalizing Charge.”

A power supply can also reverse sulfation but there is no guarantee of success. When applying a charge, a totally sulfated lead acid may draw very little current at first, and as the sulfation layer dissolves the current will gradually increase. If you must increase the charge voltage above the recommended level, set the current limiting to the lowest practical value and observe the battery voltage. If the battery does not accept a charge after 24 hours, restoration is unlikely. [BU-804, Sulfation]

Lithium-ion charges similarly to lead acid and you can use the power supply also but use extra caution. Set the voltage threshold to 4.20V/cell and make certain that none of the cells connected in series exceeds this voltage. (The protection circuit in a commercial pack does this.) Full charge is reached when the cell(s) reach 4.20V/cell voltage and the current drops to three percent of the rated current, or has bottomed out and cannot go down further. Once fully charged, disconnect the battery. Never allow a cell to dwell at 4.20V for more than a few hours. [BU-409, Charging Lithium-ion]

Please not that not all Li-ion batteries charge to 4.20V/cell. Lithium iron phosphate typically charges to 3.65V/cell and lithium-titanate to 2.85V/cell. Some high-energy cells may accept 4.30V/cell. It is important to observe these voltage limits. (See BU-205: Types of Lithium-ion.)

I do not recommend charging nickel-based batteries with a power supply. Full-charge detection is difficult to assess because the voltage signature varies with the applied charge current. If you must charge, use the temperature rise on a rapid charge as an indication for full charge. When charging at a low current, estimate the level of remaining charge and calculate the charge time. An empty 2Ah NiMH will charge in about three hours at 750–1,000mA. The trickle charge, also known as maintenance charge, must be reduced to 0.05C. [BU-407, Charging Nickel-cadmium; BU-408, Charging Nickel-metal-hydride]

Last updated 2015-03-28

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On June 30, 2011 at 10:19am
Niels-Erik Jensen wrote:

It is a bit surprising that you can charge a 2Ah(=2000mAh) battery using a 500 mA and a charging time of 3 hours.. 3h * 500mA = 1500 mAh.

The battery is heating up during charging so one would expect e.g. a 500 mA connected in e.g. 5 hours.

Please clarify. One answer could be that you should never discharge a 2Ah to more than 50% of full charge.

Please clarify. I have tried for 3 months to get an answer to this question and also how much energy (in%) is lost (to heating the battery) during decharging the battery

On July 6, 2011 at 11:06pm
Paul Peter wrote:

Give a brief idea of charging Lithium Yitrium based batteries

On July 7, 2011 at 1:20pm
Fredrick Stanley wrote:

can you send me information on how long should any cell phone charge fo

On July 9, 2011 at 2:24pm
rohit khatri wrote:

hi thanks a lot for the information you are providing.
i would like to know about dead cell and cell reversal or polarity reversal.

On August 13, 2011 at 8:56am
joel wrote:

Can you explain rapid pulse charging? I want to know how i can charge cell phones quickly in 10 mins.

On August 29, 2011 at 3:28pm
BWMichael wrote:

Joel, the faster the charge, the more damage you are doing to the battery

On March 21, 2012 at 6:50am
jamiedentims wrote:

hello again   - re your ” sailer post” thursday evening pm me and we will definatley get back to you   our systems are available now
jamie d

On June 26, 2012 at 4:53pm
michaelnalsim wrote:

well gerry it took me ages to find it here is there link
and details,ring them for advice , mention micky n recommened you

On February 22, 2013 at 9:10am
Nikhil wrote:

I want to pose a question here….. Plz help..
If I have 2 lead acid battery packs of 24V 26Ah each, and I want to charge them. Which one of the following techniques will take lesser time????

1) I connect them in series to make a 48V 26Ah unit, and charge this pack using a suitable charger for 48Volts.

2) I charge the 2 packs of 24V 26Ah simultaneously using two suitable chargers of 24 volts.

On June 14, 2013 at 6:41am
lead acid battery wrote:


On June 25, 2013 at 6:13am
Tango wrote:

Ok, I’m confused!
My wall charger supplies 5V to the phone’s microUSB port.
Is it :
a) the charger studying the battery voltage and current to regulate the delivered voltage and current, Or
b) the phone’s circuitry and charging algorithm that is instantaneously telling the charger to deliver x Volts and y Amps?
c) the phone’s circuitry receiving constant 5V from the charger and regulating the voltage and current internally according to battery condition?

Does the phone play any role here? or is it just the battery and the charger doing their thing?
If it’s the phone, I feel safe. If it’s the charger (which i doubt), then any third party charger should damage my battery as the charger is not made with my phone’s battery specs in mind. But this does not happen, third party chargers also work great.
That said, if all Li-ion batteries charge the same way (4.2V, 3% thresholds) then it’s not an issue.

If it’s the charger doing the thinking, then it’s regulating it’s voltage from zero to 4.2V during the charge cycle, whereas it is rated at 5V DC. And so is the microUSB port - rated 5V!

Soooo confused!

On July 21, 2013 at 11:20pm
Vinay wrote:

can we use two batteries in parralell

On October 18, 2013 at 2:09am
abhishek wrote:

how much current does a 12v 26 Ah battery can provide? and please ddo provide a suitable way to recharge it..

On October 26, 2013 at 5:21am
Chris Flores wrote:

How long should I charge the battery? And how should I know when the charging is complete with sealed lead acid?

On November 5, 2013 at 12:49am
Sam wrote:

Thank you for taking the time to write this article.

On November 19, 2013 at 3:32am

What is the total heat load of 12V 26AH x 32 no’s VRLA batteries connected to a 10KVA 3 phase UPS.

On December 25, 2013 at 7:46am
Imran wrote:

Plz tell me how increase battery time

On March 21, 2014 at 4:15pm
Stephen wrote:

This article has helped me understand better the basics of what “smart” chargers are doing.  My question is how a “smart” charger might determine the correct full charge point when it “knows” battery type (I tell it that), applied voltage, charger output current and time.  Since the switch to float voltage is dependent on amp-hr capacity of the battery and charge current, can a charger reliably determine battery capacity, therefore charge current with this limited information?  Thanks in advance for your assistance. I am concerned I may have purchased the wrong charger.

On March 30, 2014 at 4:32am
manu wrote:

I have a Lithium-Ion Rechargeable Battery Pack 11.1V 1500mAh. It contains 3 X Li-ion 3.7V 1500mAh cells.  Can I recharge the battery by directly connecting it to DC Power Supply. How ?

On April 22, 2014 at 10:25pm
Ruchita wrote:

I have lead acid battery of 4 V.While charging,How can I know whether battery is fully charged or not? Please help me It’s very important for me to know.

On May 21, 2014 at 11:04am
Bill Geldy wrote:

Can I replace 3 12v 17ah batteries (connected in parallel) with a deep cycle marine battery. If so, what size marine battery would you recommend?

On May 31, 2014 at 11:39pm
Suwan Khwakhali Shrestha wrote:

why my MPS 12v series battery going heat during charging?

On June 11, 2014 at 1:03am
ajay wrote:

12v adapter with battery charger pin - 20no’s
plz contact 9949341135,9912132004

On June 24, 2014 at 7:07am
Colin Williamson wrote:

Please advise at what voltage should my charger be set in order to charge 2 x 12v batteries connected in series

On July 10, 2014 at 12:38am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@Ruchita: 4V lead acid battery you can charge with 4.8V to do a quick charge. Float charge is 4.6V and you can apply that voltage forever. If you apply 4.6V and the current drops to a low value, the battery is full.

On July 10, 2014 at 12:42am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@Colin Williamson:
I assume the 12V batteries are lead based batteries. Each battery takes 13.8 float charge, or 14.5 quick charge (need to terminate manually in that case). So for 2 batteries in series, you need respectively 27.6V or 29V.

On August 21, 2014 at 5:44am
Diogo Saraiva wrote:

I didn’t understand.
Can I use my radioamateur source (RPS1230SWD) to charge my 12V 1.2AH lead-acid battery?
I can only set voltage… (and noise offset)
Can you help me please?
Thank you very much

On October 19, 2014 at 10:48pm
hashan wrote:

Thanks for provinding hese information.i want to know if we want to give current and charge runng car battery(12V). what are the current and voltage we should supply.

On October 20, 2014 at 1:25am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ Diogo Saraiva:
RPS1230SWD is perfect for charging 12V lead acid. Set it to 13.8V (is very easy: set the slide switch o 13.8V…) and connect the battery. + of the battery to the red connector, of course. Caution: if your battery is very empty, it might draw more current the first minute(s) than is good for it. So just for being sure, you can put a resistor between the charger and the battery. I would take 10 ohm approximately, with a rating of 2 watts or higher. This will limit the current to a safe value. So the charger’s black connector goes to the - of the battery, the charger’s red goes to the resistor. The other side of the resistor goes to the + of the battery. After having it connected for, let’s keep it safe, 15 minutes, you can bypass the resistor. You can also keep it in place; charging will take some more time then. You can leave the battery connected forever to 13.8V. It will stay full and ready for use. If you switch off the power supply, better remove the battery, because it might discharge slowly through the power supply.

On October 20, 2014 at 1:28am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@hashan: what kind of power supply will you use? Most of the time, the power supply is in danger, not the battery…

On November 23, 2014 at 3:26pm
rod wrote:

Is there a portable automotive 12VDC battery charger that will also power small 12VDC loads or a few watts like a small air pump - while NOT being hooked to a battery?

Seems using a battery charger to make DC is not possible on “automatic” battery chargers because they “sense” a dead battery?  Any work around for this?

Thanks - Rod

On November 29, 2014 at 2:30pm
1989 wrote:

Do you need to use DC current to charge batteries or is AC current ok??

On December 2, 2014 at 9:53pm
Ramesh Subramani wrote:

i have two doubts..
1) Is the charging circuit is necessary to charge a battery of 12V from a DC DC converter which gives a boosted 15V from 5V input..? will it charge if i directly connect the output of converter to the battery itself..?
2) i have a 12V battery of capacity 10Ah..can i charge it using a 250mA current which is provided by the DC DC booster circuit..?

On December 3, 2014 at 1:48am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ Ramesh Subramani:
yes, you can charge a 12V battery with a DC/DC converter that upconverts 5V to a higher voltage. Normally you need 13.8V. But you will need to limit the current in a certain way. If the DC/DC converter is limited, it will work without any extras. But 15V is too high to leave the battery connected. AS soon as it reaches 14.5V you need to disconnect manually. Can’t you reduce the output voltage to 13.8V? 2 1N4001 diodes in series could do the job. Then you can leave the battery connected.
From you questioning I understand that you DC/DC can deliver 250mA. That is enough to charge the battery. But it will take some time, of course…

On December 3, 2014 at 2:10am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

No, it is not allowed to connect an AC source like a mains transformer directly to the battery. Depending on the size of the transformer or adapter, you will damage it, and the battery too. If you really need to use the AC voltage, you need a bridge rectifier between the adapter and the battery. And some current limiting, depending on the voltage of the AC source. After the bridge rectifier is pulsing DC, which is no problem.

On December 3, 2014 at 4:23am
Ramesh Subramani wrote:

thank you very much for your reply sir..
i have another doubt, as i read it in an article, the battery draws more current from the supply when it is empty and if it is full the current input to the battery is zero..if so then if i connect the DC DC converter directly which can deliver only 250mA, whether it will damage the converter.? or what happen to the current output from the DC DC converter..?

On December 4, 2014 at 2:00am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@Ramesh Subramani:
that is exactly what I mean when I said you need some current limiting circuit. If you upconverter has no current limiting, it can be overloaded.
So there are 2 possibilities:
1. your upconverter is current limited. Then there is no problem: you can connect it directly to the battery (eventuelly through 2 diodes to lower the 15V to 13.8V, but it is better if you change the circuit so that the output voltage becomes 13.8V. Most of the time only one resistor need to change value to do this)
2. your upconverter is not current limited. You could add a small circuit to limit the current. Example: http://www.eeweb.com/blog/circuit_projects/additional-current-limiter-for-power-supply   (the leftmost circuit will do. Use 2.7 ohm in the emitter of the transistor to limit to 250mA)
Good luck!

On December 6, 2014 at 7:47pm
Ramesh Subramani wrote:

thank you sir..

On December 18, 2014 at 5:19pm
John Creed wrote:

I have a three wheeled electric scooter witht a 36v electrical system powered by 3 -12v SLA batteriues. I would like to replace the SLA batteries by makeing a 36v Lithium-Ion battery by soldering 30 - AA 1.2v batteries in series. I see no problem making the battery, what I don’t know is how to charge it. Can I use the lead acid charger that came with the scooter or do I need a 36v charger designed for Lithium-Ion batteries?
Thanks for any input,

On January 6, 2015 at 3:30am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ John Creed:
Are you sure your cells are 1.2V Lithium-Ion? Some well-known Chinese websites e.g. Alibaba state “1.2V Lithium cell” but when you read on, it appears to be Ni-MH or even Ni-Cd. Imho, 1.2V Li-ion does not exist, unless maybe someone placed some circuitry inside the battery to reduce the output voltage.
Anyway, for charging li-ion, you cannot use the lead battery charger anymore. Li-ion requires a very accurately regulated output voltage and current limiting.
Li-ion “native” voltage is 3.6V…3.8V So you could use 10 of those in series to get 36V.

On January 20, 2015 at 12:24pm
Samuel wrote:

I have a macrotel rechargeable 9v battery @290mah, and my charger delivers 15mah, and the charge time is eternal, so here is the matter, i don’t know if you have heard of those power supplies for guitar pedals, well anyway, this power supply delivers 9v at 100mah, so calculating it would take less than 3 hours to charge, so i want to know if i can do it, and if there are risks on doing it, hope you can help me, regards!

On January 21, 2015 at 1:25am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ Samuel:
9V 290mAh - I assume it is NiMH since Lithium has higher capacity. 9V NiMH is actually 8.4V (7x 1.2V cells). You need at least 1.5V…1.6V per cell to charge, so 7x1.5V= 10.5V. If your guitar pedal supply delivers 9V exactly, you cannot charge the battery with it. If you connect it directly, you will see some current but quickly it will lower down to almost nothing.
A second issue would be the max current allowable. Those 9V cells, unless it is a fast charge type, prefer 1/10 of the capacity as charge current, so that would be 29mA, for 15 hours.
And a third one: you can never connect a standard power supply directly to a NiMH battery, unless it has a good current limitation circuit, and you can terminate the charge manually.

On January 23, 2015 at 3:12pm
Samuel wrote:

Hey Andre, Thank you for your answer i really aprecciate it. So if you say that my option isn’t as much good, where can i get a charger that is more efficient?. I’m not from USA so i would really thank if you can give a web page or some dealers that ship worldwide and be trustful obviously, thank you again Andrew, Regards smile

On January 23, 2015 at 5:21pm
Glen Kinder wrote:

Hi - I have a 36v 1.6 amp.  scooter battery (3-12’s)  Would it do harm to charge them with a 36v -1.8 amp charger?

On January 26, 2015 at 2:12am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ Samuel:
you can find lots of chargers at Ebay but they are slow (13hours for 175mA so over 20 hours for your battery). One that might solve your problem is called “Intelligent Battery Charger for 1-4 PP3 8.4V (9V) NiCd/NiMH batteries. UK seller” It states it fills a 280mAh battery in 3 hours…

On January 26, 2015 at 2:23am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@Glen Kinder:
in order to answer that question, some more detail would be welcome… e.g. battery type number, and charger type number. But I assume it is a scooter battery charger for the right battery chemistry. So imho the 12.5% more current will normally do no harm. But that’s only my opinion.

On March 25, 2015 at 10:21pm
zam wrote:

It helped me a lot but my question is that while we are discharging the lead acid battery we usually concern only with DC voltage level. So is it that AC voltage is not recommended?

On April 24, 2015 at 6:21am
Ian wrote:

Do 9v battery phone chargers work?

On April 24, 2015 at 11:19pm
khan g wrote:

I have a question. I have 2 x 12v both 175AH lead acid bettries connected in series. I want to charg them fully in one hour. Can any one help me to know what current and voltage will be appropiet for fast charging.

On July 23, 2015 at 8:16am
Shree wrote:

Dear sir
    I want to use a old HCL laptopbattrey in to an emergency light .
But how can i charge it with the help of my laptop charger rating 19 volt output ?..battery rating is 11.1 volt 4.4 ah ..
How can i reduced charger current value with help of rasistance or divode wich sufficient for charging the above battery..
Please help me sir ..

On July 24, 2015 at 12:10am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

to khan g:
So you have 24V 175Ah in total. Theoretically you need something like 28…30V 175Amps to charge it in one hour. (because 175Ah theoretically means it can deliver 175A one hour long, so you charge with the same) But before you even try that, I suggest to check carefully if it is allowed without cooking the batteries…
29 or 30V 175A means 5250 watts. That is quite a power supply!

On July 24, 2015 at 12:22am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

to Shree:
I’d say I need more info regarding the battery. Since it is 11.1V I guess it is Lithium-ion. And these are quite critical regarding charge voltage. If the voltage is too high, they might overheat and even explode.
Anyway, you will need to build a circuit that reduces and stabilizes the 19V input to the desired value, and that limits the current to a certain value, also depending on the battery type.
If your battery is 3x Li-ion “standard” cells in series, you will need 12.3V to be on the safe side and yet charge it sufficiently. Next question is: how much current can your charger deliver? Do you want slow and easy charge, or as fast as possible?
Best regards, Andre

On July 24, 2015 at 1:24am
shreekant wrote:

dear sir
    it is lithium ion battery having six cell ..and i want slow and easy charge .. what should i do ? how can i make this circuit to reduce voltage ..

thanks sir

On July 24, 2015 at 6:42am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

Hi shreekant,
I cannot think of a more simple circuit than this one:
LM317 is a very common and cheap linear regulator.
You will have to build 2 stages. First stage is the current limiter stage, see figure 26 in the datasheet. For R1 I would take 2.2ohm 2watt. That will give you 1.25/2.2=0.568A charge current. Input of this circuit is your 19V adapter.
Behind this stage comes the voltage regulator stage from figure 1. R1 is 240ohm 1/4w. For 12.3V output you need R2 to be 2120ohm. You can use a small trimmer resistor there, say 5K. Now you can trim the output voltage to exactly 12.3V (without battery connected) using a multimeter. That means 4.1V per cell and is safe. Now you can connect the battery. When empty, you voltage will drop a bit, since the current limiter stage lowers its output voltage to keep the current at 568mA. After a while, the voltage will be 12.3V and the current will become lower than 568mA, until it is near zero after some hours. You can keep the batteries connected. When you keep them connected with the input 19V disconnected, there will be a certain small discharge. But I guess this is not important, since you plan to use it as emergency supply and the load current will be a lot higher than this leakage.
One remark: since the regulators are linear (to keep things simple), they will become warm, certainly when the batteries are empty. So you need to screw the regulators onto a small cooling profile. It won’t be more than 5W in total.
Good luck!

On July 24, 2015 at 8:19am
Shreekant wrote:

Thank u very much sir ...
A last question i have also a solar penal out voltage is 12 volt wich is used in solar lantern .. can i used this power source to charge the same battery mentioned above .i .e 11.1 volt lithium ion battery 6 cell ,4.4 ah ...

Thanking u ..
You are so helpfull and awesome person sir
Thanks a lot .

On July 27, 2015 at 1:26am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

Hi Shreekant,
it won’t do any harm if you connect it instead of the 19V laptop supply. The regulators will limit the current and voltage. If there is something to limit, of course. I don’t know how much current your panel can deliver. And the linear regulators have some voltage drop, so the 12V might be a bit short. Also the efficiency of the circuit I described is not very high. There are switchmode circuits with chips that are specifically intended to find the optimal load point (max output power) for the solar panel. Of course these are a bit more complex to build.
If you have a small solar panel, you could try to limit the current to a much lower value, like 100mA or so. Charging will be slower of course, but it’s for free…

On August 12, 2015 at 9:16pm
Anthony Adverse wrote:

I to have a scooter battery pack at 24v, its 2x 12v 4.5AH SLAs, if these are connected in parallel, effectively 12v 9AH is it relatively safe to hook this up to a lead acid car charger, the one I have is fairly dumb.  I guess the question really is, will a lead acid charger work ok for sla batteries?



On August 13, 2015 at 2:28am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

Hi Anthony Adverse,
not knowing your charger I’d say it is a risk. You can connect the batteries, and they will charge for sure, but carefully measure the current and voltage. If the initial current is above 3Amp: stop immediately. Also measure no-load (“open”) voltage. 13…14V: OK. 14…15V: you will need to terminate manually once the batteries are full (meaning: charge current has dropped to less than 100mA or so). When higher than 15V: risk for damage. But this also depends on the impedance of the charger; if it drops voltage to a lot lower with just a small load, it could be usable.
Possible solutions to use this charger:
- If open voltage is too high: put diodes in series, like 1N4500…1N4508. Cost nothing. These are 3Amp diodes and drop 0.6V each (without current; drop is 0.8V with 3A current). Say your open voltage is 16V, then you can put 3 diodes in series. Gives you approx 14.2 open voltage, and will reduce the current.
- If open voltage is OK but initial charge current is too high: add a resistor in series. One ohm or a few ohm could do. Take 10W resistors so you won’t burn them. Or a 55W halogen car front light bulb could be used as series resistor as well.
- If both are too high: add resistor AND diodes in series until open voltage is near 14V and initial charge current is below 3A.
This will require some experimenting. But measuring the initial charge current is essential. Once it has dropped to a safe value, keep on monitoring the battery voltage. Once is has raised to 14.8…15V: stop charging. Good luck!

On September 9, 2015 at 7:30am
gerry wrote:

my union 12V1.2Ah sealed rechargeable mx12012 battery is dead, used for my intruder alarm system backup in case of power cuts.

please can you advise cheapest battery charger that couls recharge this battery

On September 10, 2015 at 1:24am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

Hi Gerry,
If “dead” means your voltage is very low, like below 9V, you need to throw away the battery and buy a new one. You cannot completely recover its capacity by any means.
If you want to try to get it alive anyway, connect a DC power supply to it. Before connecting + to + and - to -, set it to 13.8V and limit the current to 100mA approx. Leave it connected for a few days. But it will probably not draw any current at all.
I hope this answers your question. If your question is about replacing the intruder alarm charging circuit, that is a more difficult one. I looked a few minutes but couldn’t find any suitable chargers on the internet. You need 13.8V since the battery is connected to it all the time. And you need a current limiting of approx 200mA. Please see my reply to shreekant a few posts up. It describes a simple 2-stage charging circuit.
Good luck!

On September 11, 2015 at 12:36am
gerry mc wrote:

Thanks you Andre.

Yes the battery has just discharged due to a few mains failures over the last 10 years!
I did buy a new battery £23 but I thought if I could re-charhge the old one I would have one on stby. I will try what you recommend “Before connecting + to + and - to -, set it to 13.8V and limit the current to 100mA approx. Leave it connected for a few days”- one again thanks for your time and info.

Kind regards

On September 22, 2015 at 8:30pm

I need to know what voltage and amps rating does the charger need to be to charge the battery safely on My Son’s Samsung Galaxy Nexus mobile phone the battery is A Samsung Near Field Communication 3.7 V Li-ion 1850 mAh BATTERY?
these are the extra numbers in letters that are on the battery they may help you.
EB-L1D71VZ 1850 mAh VZW : SAM1(or it’s an I)515BATS DPP DC120725 PLZ reply back as soon as possible because tomorrow’s my son’s birthday he’s going to be 7 years old and I want to make sure he has a charger for it I picked up the phone at a pawn shop For him.Thank you for your time.

On September 23, 2015 at 1:05am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@Dick Murray:
I quickly googled the Samsung galaxy nexus, and, like most phones, it has a micro-USB port to charge it. So it is easy: you can use any micro-USB phone charger. You can even connect it to a PC with a USB-to-micro-USB cable, and it will charge. The phone itself takes care of the charging process; you don’t have to worry about it. I would go for a 5V 1000mA charger. All micro-USB chargers are 5V. PC USB is 5V too. Finally there is some standardization! Some chargers are only 500mA, but most are 1000mA and even higher. Should cost less than 10 dollar…

On October 1, 2015 at 10:21am
Iyala Ore Nigel wrote:

Hi Andre,
I have a 48volts dc motor, which I operate with a (4 x 12volts 7.5Ah sealed lead battery) connected in series.

Can I use a battery eliminator of equivalent capacitor to charge the battery, and at the same time run the dc motor ?

What am trying to achieve is to keep the motor running when there is power outage and the battery eliminator to take over when power is restored.

Are there risks involved ? Do I stand to fry my batteries ? Current limiting resistor specification is welcomed since I can find it here in my locality.

Integrated circuits are scarce here and 48volts battery chargers are so expensive, which is why I am working with a battery eliminator.

Please advice me in an email. Thanks a million

On October 2, 2015 at 1:24am
Andre Van den Wyngaert wrote:

@ lyala Ore Nigel,
some questions first: what is the power of the motor (how much current)?
Which type of Battery eliminator (voltage and max current)
your email address if you want me to mail you grin
best regards,